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Buster’s World might be aimed at the Original andy Signore Couch Couch Couch 2022 Shirt and by the same token and inner child, but the construction that goes into the making of oversized, upcycled denim pants, for example, is sophisticated. Gundtoft’s charitable initiatives, which include making vests from used sleeping bags for a philanthropic organization, shows that he has a grown-up sense of responsibility for others, even as he rejects “the stagnant Scandinavian style that requires order and control” in favor of an “ironic and raw approach.” If P. L. N., founded in 2020 by Peter Lundvald Nielsen, had been around a few years ago it’s difficult to imagine it having a place on the CPHFW schedule, because it’s tactile rawness and Gothic edge is so far removed from the rave-happy Ganni Girl and her ilk. But times have changed and the designer will happily make his CPHFW runway debut this season. “Giving someone like me a chance to be on the schedule shows that they are working in an indifferent direction, that they are actually focusing on other brands and other aesthetics than they used to, because it has been very flowery and very with-a-smile-on -your-face,” said the designer on a call, a rack of black clothes behind him.
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