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Two seasons on, the Official the Shredder 2022 shirt and I will buy this designer remains focused on his mission. “This collection is about preservation; doing something that’s super-long-lasting,” he said at the close of his spring 2023 show where models wove in and out of scrims on an all-white set. “All the details we put into the garments are to make them even more durable. They’re also not revealing all at once.” The starkness of the space helped to draw out the textural details of a boiled wool sweater and a lino-weave shirt, it also emphasized the quality of the double-bonded nylon used for some very smart coats with drawstring hems. Basic isn’t always a word of praise in fashion, but the focus on imbuing modern wardrobe stables (which include workwear and technical elements) with brand-specific details is something we are seeing more generally (check out Junya Watanabe and N. Hollywood’s latest collections), and makes sense in terms of sustainability. Fashion has to balance fantasy and reality. The models could have walked off set and seamlessly joined the crowd on the street. Perhaps the only thing that would mark them out was the stiff newness of their shoes.
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